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Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022
The S.S.
Catherine leaves the twin towns of Tain L’Hermitage-Tournon behind and sails 77km north reaching Lyon tonight. Captain
Pascal skillfully navigates four more locks en route; Gergans,
Sablons Vaugris & Pierre-Benite, docking at Quai Claude Bernard in Lyon,
near the Pont de l'Universite bridge. Lyon is the
third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille, and the capital of both
the Rhône department
and the Auvergne-Rhône Alpes region. We are
nearing the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers.
Pont de l'Universite bridge Image by Christie
We start
our morning with a guided walking tour weaving through Vieux Lyon through a warren
of cobblestone streets, exploring the secret passageways called Traboules. During the 19th century these passages
were once used
to link courtyards, stairs, and homes to the Rhône River. They allow silk weavers to
transport their precious silks in inclement weather. In the 20th century, some passageways were used as escape routes and hiding places during
the German occupation. Today you can visit some 40 Traboules that are open to tourists
but also used by residents as public corridors and community courtyards. You can locate the Traboules route by the decorative signage, a bronze plaque with a lion’s head, and
arrow pointing the way.
Our tour of Lyon would not be complete without a stop at Brochier Soieries, an 1890 silk shop specializing in handcrafted silk fabrics, scarves, ties and other high quality made-in France products. The family is dedicated to keeping the 16th century Lyon traditional industry alive for multiple generations.
Brochier Soieries 1890
By lunchtime the river cruisers visit the elegant Lyon Halles Hotel Dieu for a tasting of local saucissons, bread, and wine.
We continue our tour with a short bus ride to the top of Fourvière
Hill where the Basilica of Notre Dame Fourvière crowns the hilltop and is dedicated to the virgin Mary and is a UNESCO landmark. The panoramic view looms over Lyon’s cityscape rising from the Saône River.
Some say you can see as far as Mont Blanc.
The afternoon
is free, and many river cruisers reserved the Uniworld bikes to explore this pedestrian-friendly city. In a city of 4,000 restaurants and 15 Michelin stars,
there is one place where every Lyonnais comes, the covered market, Les Halles de
Lyon, bearing the name of world-renowned Chef
Paul Bocuse. It is an incredible market with over 50 vendors, restaurants,
and bars. It can be found in the La Part-Dieu neighborhood near Lyon’s main
train station. Although
our meals are inclusive onboard the S.S. Catherine, one must not miss the Bouchons Lyonnais, small bistros, to lunch or admire on your visit. These
pretty Lyonnais restaurants serve generous homestyle food, with artfully painted walls, checked tablecloths, and chalkboard menus. To find an authentic Bouchon simply look for the yellow plate with the face of Gnafron, a famous and witty
Lyon hand puppet, representing the silk worker industry of France. No
visit to Lyon would be complete without eating in a Bouchon which I will do as
I stay in Lyon for additional days.
Late
tonight we will sail 65km north to Mâcon, France the southernmost city in the department
of Saône-et-Loire and the
region of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. Mâcon lies on the western banks of the Saône River.
J. Christina is the author and owner of Scribbles and Smiles. Through our blog, we share stories of the wonderful discoveries we have made on our European travels. Christina (Christie) is married to John, a.k.a. Mr. Christie. Where Mr. Christie is right on board with their travel jaunts around the world sharing in their blogging endeavor - hence, their bespoke pen name, J. Christina. Christie is traveling solo on this adventure, 2022.
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