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All blog posts are based on our personal travels around Europe, penned by J. Christina.
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Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022
Train ride from Lyon to Avignon July 26.
Travel is like many other things in life – we get what we put into it. So much of the pleasure of travel is the dreamy anticipation: plotting the route, learning the history and culture, imagining the sights, and stumbling upon new discoveries. But what about travel life after a global pandemic?
Our world was shut down for 2.5
years, when a mysterious global coronavirus altered our lives in ways we never
imagined. Our personal and travel lives abruptly retooled, realigned, and were
put on hold indefinitely. For months we could only connect with friends and
business associates over Zoom, WhatsApp, and Facetime; and certainly, travel
was restricted, and international borders were closed. Our life was reimagined into something we
didn’t choose. There was plenty of angst; the who, what, when, and where with
the pandemic crisis looming for months and thought years to come.
The countdown app on my iPhone reads 883 days since my
last international travel adventure. Today
in 2022, things are looking brighter and hopeful, and the anticipation of
travel has returned to this solo traveler, and she is off to revisit the south of France. Where I will travel by plane, train, or foot, and eventually join a European
River Cruise on the Rhône River.
As borders reopen and the method we exchange travel
documents, check-in at airports, and border control has been changed forever; packing
one’s patience is essential. Forging ahead into this journey is exciting once
again. Travel lifestyles are changing, and we will adapt.
My travel adventure begins by arriving in Lyon, France, where I board the TGV inOui going south to Avignon. It has been thirteen years since I’ve been in the South of France, so renewing my memories and solo travel is top of mind. The train makes three station stops en route; Valence considered the gateway to the South of France and the capital of Drome in the Rhone valley, and Montélimar, where Chateau des Adhemar reigns over the city, and the third station stop at Orange, where it is famous for its Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines.
It's a pleasant ride with all the amenities one would need for a 90-minute train ride, a first-class assigned seat, free Wi-Fi, charging plugs, electrical outlets at each seat, and a window view into the French countryside.
En route, the landscape is dry, crisp,
and parched; sunflowers hang their droopy heads nearly to the ground, and the
once golden wheat fields are now faded and harvested into large bales of
brittle straw. Farmers on tractors toil in the distance leaving behind clouds
of dust. There's new development in the distance, new home construction,
solar panels, greenhouses, and wind turbines scattered across the thirsty
landscape, even a chateau in the faraway.
I arrive at Avignon Centre amid the country’s fourth heat wave deemed the worst drought
on record. Most days the
temperatures reach 103-110° with wildfires looming in the south of France,
burning coveted olive trees and forests. French farmers are experiencing a
dramatic decline in the production of soy, sunflowers, and corn yields; and
three times less lavender oil will be extracted from this year’s harvest due to
the extreme, prolonged drought. It takes 150 kilograms of flowers for one liter
of lavender oil and many essential oil farmers are
forgoing the labor-intensive oil extraction and selling varieties of dried
sachet and bundles of lavender as an alternative. The brunt of this drought has
dramatically altered the production of French products we love so much, milk,
cheese, wine and olives.
This
drought has caused European countries to restrict water
usage where watering is only allowed for vegetables and fruits. Shipping is
currently endangered on the Rhine, Germany’s biggest waterway, as well as the
Danube and Po rivers. Some cargo loads are only one-fifth the amount, due to
the shallow water levels. Luckily, in a few days I will sail on the Rhône River
where the water level is adequate.
My accommodations are at Le Limas for the next few nights,
inside the ramparts of Avignon; where the proprietor has arranged a taxi
to meet me at the station. My Oui driver weaves his way through the historical
streets filled with day trippers, tourists, and theater performers from the
month-long Theatre Festival, one of the biggest in the world.
After settling in I have a quiet evening and dinner with
Carolyne Kauser-Abbott, editor of Perfectly Provence at the
lovely Restaurant Le Violette. She and her husband are part-time
residents in the South of France and by happenstance, our schedules coincide.
Perfectly Provence is a food, travel, and lifestyle
magazine for the South of France and the French Riviera. There are many writers
for this online in-depth resource, and I’ve had the privilege to be a
contributor. We share an evening of conversation, travel adventures, good food,
laughter, and refreshing Alpilles rosé.
Continue this journey by subscribing to www.scribblesandsmiles.net or follow on Instagram and Facebook. Join me in discovering two of the most beautiful villages of France: Gordes, Les Baux de Provence. And the quaint villages of L' Isle sur la Sorgue, and Saint Rèmy de Provence before boarding a European River Cruise. Where I will sail on the Rhône and Saône rivers through Burgundy & Provence, once again.
1 comment:
I thoroughly enjoyed reading this article and I’m so happy you’re traveling again!
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