Travel is like many other things in
life—we get out what we put in. Much of the pleasure of travel is the dreamy
anticipation: plotting the route, learning the history and culture, imagining
the sights, and stumbling upon new discoveries.
Provence is one of the most beautiful
regions of France, stretching from the lower Rhône River in the west to the
Italian border in the east, bound by the azure Mediterranean Sea in the south,
and is known as the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region.
The Provence region of France is
famous worldwide for its postcard-worthy villages, lavender fields, and
breathtaking vistas. Each village has its unique personality and a special
allure; it’s love at first sight.
This solo trip looks back
at hilltop villages I visited many years ago while making new discoveries in
the Luberon, in the department of Vaucluse. Some villages are classified as the
Plus Beaux Villages de France, while others are noted for history, artists, and
markets. Many are close together and never far from my home base in Avignon.
Veronica with
ProVans is my driver for a full day in the French countryside where public
transportation is limited in the Luberon; she maneuvers the narrow switchback
roads, roundabouts, and charming country roads like a pro. She has a
delightful personality and speaks English, Italian, French, German, and
Russian. She is well prepared for all her international clients.
We travel east of
Avignon approximately 25km to the edge of the Luberon
region, where we stop at L’lsle-sur-la-Sorgue. It’s a beautiful drive
into the countryside with Mont Ventoux high and proud in the distance.
The town of L’lsle-sur-la-Sorgue hearkens back to the
19th century when water wheels were at their peak for milling silk, wool, and
paper. Today you can follow the circuit and discover the remaining fifteen
mossy-covered waterwheels sprinkled throughout that once industrialized the
area. The Sorgue River is fed by the largest natural spring in France,
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, and the fifth largest spring in the world. This creates
an island in the center of the Sorgue River. Where many enjoy the cold, clear,
blue turquoise waters for kayaking and fishing.
Over the past 30 years or so,
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has become more widely known all over France as the
International Antique Capital. There are two international antique fairs every
year, recognized as the third most important market in France. And the
not-to-be-missed floating markets selling their products from flat-bottom boats
on the Sorgue River.
Veronica and I continue winding our
way east through small country roads dotted with olive groves, vineyards, and
lavender fields, a perfect Provençal Road trip. We reach the iconic hilltop
village of Gordes, the Crown Jewel of the Luberon. Sitting on the edge of
the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon valley. Classified
as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, it is
one of the most photographed in the Luberon.
Next, we make the obligatory photo stop at the cliff’s edge overlooking the Luberon valley with a panoramic view. The village clings to the craggy hillside and is topped with an 11th-century fortified castle and a 12th-century buttressed church. Where the Provençal light is ever-changing across the basin.
There are 22 elderly residents living year-round in the village and carrying on with their daily lives in the upper part of the commune. They are hardy Gordiens as they park their cars in the middle plateau, 200 meters from the village, even in winter, and climb the ancient, rugged cobblestone steps and pathways. Many of the inhabitants have shops on the ground floor of their homes, and welcome visitors year-round.
It’s just a quick ride southwest to
reach Les Baux de Provence between Arles and Saint-Rémy. The
village of Les Baux is another classified
Most Beautiful Village in France, 30 km south of Avignon. Located in the
Alpilles mountains, atop a rocky spur topped with castle ruins looking down
into the Rhône delta. *It has been written that after the birth of Jesus,
Balthazar, one of the three wise men, is said to have continued his journey
following the star of Bethlehem as far as Les Baux-de-Provence.
Inside this artistic village of Les
Baux, you will find art galleries, luxury boutiques, beautiful hotels, and the
not-to-be-missed Carrières de Lumières. A 3D immersive exhibition, held deep
inside the Val d’Enfer valley, a limestone quarry. In 2022, Venice,
la Serenissima, and Yves Klein’s infinite Blue were featured. From
the tippy top of Les Baux, you can see Arles, the Camargue, and the distant
Alpilles.
Les Baux embodies true Provençal
culture, with the village accessible only on foot. This is the second most
visited monument in the region, with 1.5 million visitors per year, and
where aluminum in bauxite
ore was discovered in 1821.
We conclude our Perfect Provençal Road
trip by driving north, maneuvering several roundabouts and narrow switchback
roads to reach Saint Rémy, the Capital of the Alpilles. The town is the
birthplace of Nostradamus. It is nestled between Avignon and Arles in a commune
in the Bouches-du-Rhône department on the northern edge of the
Alpilles. The Alpilles are characterized by a small range of low limestone
mountains, and the Luberon is known for ochre-hued hilltop villages. Together
they form the heartland of Provence.
Saint Rémy has become a vibrant
artists’ community with galleries and antique shops, and this is where you will
find a commemorative plaque to Nostradamus. He was born here, and the facade of
his home remains. He is still famous today as the man who foresaw the
future.
Saint Rémy is a chic little town with
fashionable shops, cafes, and a terrific food scene. But more well known for
Vincent van Gogh, who was a patient for one year at the Saint-Paul Asylum;
after that curious accident with his ear. In that one year, Van Gogh
painted his most famous pieces from memory looking out his window: Starry Night
and the Irises, and 100+ more paintings, from outside in the gardens and the
village.
There are 170+ classified Most
Beautiful Villages in France scattered over the region. Just waiting for you to
amble through the winding cobblestone streets and discover hidden treasures
that will simply take your breath away.
Temperature 102°
July 26- July 31, 2022 Solo Travel
July 31 - August 7, 2022 Uniworld European River Cruise
€ 1.00 = $1.00 USD
Transportation notes Luberon, Alpilles etc.
*L’Isle sur la Sorgue is the only Luberon town that can be accessed by train or bus.
I’m Christie, a Midwest native who is an intrepid traveler, author, and owner of the blog Scribbles and Smiles. Writing under the bespoke pen name J. Christina, sharing stories from European adventures and magical excursions. I have contributed articles to France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, Perfectly Provence, and Bella Provence Travels.
Travel is a privilege.
