6/16/2026

Luberon, Alpilles | The Heartland of Provence

Travel is like many other things in life—we get out what we put in. Much of the pleasure of travel is the dreamy anticipation: plotting the route, learning the history and culture, imagining the sights, and stumbling upon new discoveries.

Provence is one of the most beautiful regions of France, stretching from the lower Rhône River in the west to the Italian border in the east, bound by the azure Mediterranean Sea in the south, and is known as the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region.

The Provence region of France is famous around the world for its postcard-worthy villages, lavender fields, and breathtaking vistas. Each village has its unique personality and a special allure; it’s love at first sight.  



This solo trip looks back at hilltop villages I visited many years ago while making new discoveries in the Luberon, in the department of Vaucluse. Some villages are classified as the Plus Beaux Villages de France, while others are noted for history, artists, and markets. Many are close together and never far from my home base in Avignon.

Veronica with ProVans is my driver for a full day in the French countryside where public transportation is limited in the Luberon; she maneuvers the narrow switchback roads, roundabouts, and charming country roads like a pro.  She has a delightful personality and speaks English, Italian, French, German, and Russian. She is well prepared for all international clients. 

We travel east of Avignon approximately 25km to the edge of the Luberon region, where we stop at L’lsle-sur-la-Sorgue. It’s a beautiful drive into the countryside with Mont Ventoux high and proud in the distance. It is a sweet village where the Sorgue river runs through it.

The town of L’lsle-sur-la-Sorgue hearkens back to the 19th century when water wheels were at their peak for milling silk, wool, and paper. Today you can follow the circuit and discover the remaining fifteen mossy-covered waterwheels sprinkled throughout that once industrialized the area. The Sorgue River is fed by the largest natural spring in France, Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, and the fifth largest spring in the world. This creates an island in the center of the Sorgue River. Where many enjoy the cold, clear, blue turquoise waters for kayaking and fishing.

Over the past 30 years or so, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has become more widely known all over France as the International Antique Capital. There are two international antique fairs every year, recognized as the third most important market in France.  And the not-to-be-missed floating markets selling their products from flat-bottom boats on the Sorgue River

Veronica and I continue winding our way east through small country roads dotted with olive groves, vineyards, and lavender fields, a perfect Provençal Road trip. We reach the iconic hilltop village of Gordes, the Crown Jewel of the Luberon.  Sitting on the edge of the Vaucluse mountains, facing the Luberon valley. Classified as Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, it is one of the most photographed in the Luberon.



Gordes is a lovely traditional Provençal village p
erched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Luberon Regional Nature Park. But first, we make the obligatory photo stop at the cliff’s edge overlooking the Luberon valley with a panoramic view. The village clings to the craggy hillside and is topped with an 11th-century fortified castle and a 12th-century buttressed church.  Where the Provençal light is ever-changing across the basin.

There are 22 elderly residents living year-round in the village and carrying on with their daily lives in the upper part of the commune.  They are hardy Gordiens as they park their cars in the middle plateau, 200 meters from the village, even in winter, and climb the ancient, rugged cobblestone steps and pathways. Many of the inhabitants have shops on the ground floor of their homes, and welcome visitors all year round.

It’s just a quick ride southwest to reach Les Baux de Provence between Arles and Saint-Rémy. The village of Les Baux is another classified Most Beautiful Village in France, 30 km south of Avignon. Located in the Alpilles mountains, atop a rocky spur topped with castle ruins looking down into the Rhône delta. *It has been written that after the birth of Jesus, Balthazar, one of the three wise men, is said to have continued his journey following the star of Bethlehem as far as Les Baux-de-Provence.

Inside this artistic village of Les Baux, you will find art galleries, luxury boutiques, beautiful hotels, and the not-to-be-missed Carrières de Lumières. A 3D immersive exhibition, held deep inside the Val d’Enfer valley, a limestone quarry. In 2022, Venice, la Serenissima, and Yves Klein’s infinite Blue were featured. From the tippy top of Les Baux, you can see Arles, the Camargue, and the distant Alpilles. 

Les Baux exudes the true Provençal culture, where the village is only accessible on foot. This is the second most visited monument in the region, with 1.5 million visitors per year, and where aluminum in bauxite ore was discovered in 1821.

We conclude our Perfect Provençal Road trip by driving north, maneuvering several roundabouts and narrow switchback roads to reach Saint Rémy, the Capital of the Alpilles. The town is the birthplace of Nostradamus. It is nestled between Avignon and Arles in a commune in the Bouches-du-Rhône department on the northern edge of the Alpilles. The Alpilles are characterized by rugged limestone hills, and the Luberon is known for ochre-hued hilltop villages. Together they form the heartland of Provence.

Saint Rémy has become a vibrant artists’ community with galleries and antique shops, and this is where you will find a commemorative plaque to Nostradamus. He was born here, and the facade of his home remains. He is still famous today as the man who foresaw the future. 

Saint Rémy is a chic little town with fashionable shops, cafes, and a terrific food scene. But more well known for Vincent van Gogh, who was a patient for one year at the Saint-Paul Asylum; after that curious accident with his ear.  In that one year, Van Gogh painted his most famous pieces from memory looking out his window: Starry Night and the Irises, and 100+ more paintings, from outside in the gardens and the village.

There are close to 160 classified Most Beautiful Villages in France scattered over the region. Just waiting for you to amble through the winding cobblestone streets and discover hidden treasures that will simply take your breath away

 

*Continue your journey by subscribing to www.scribblesandsmiles.net as I set sail on the Rhône and Saône Rivers on a Uniworld European River Cruise. Where the Rhône River is notable for being the only major European river that flows directly into the Mediterranean Sea. Rhone River Map from Lyon to Avignon 

Temperature 102°

July 26- July 31, 2022 Solo Travel 

July 31 - August 7, 2022  Uniworld European River Cruise

1.00 = $1.00 USD

Getting Around Provence

 Getting Around the Alpilles

 Transportation notes Luberon, Alpilles etc. 

   *L’Isle sur la Sorgue is the only Luberon town that can be accessed by train or bus.

 


4/08/2026

Bled, Slovenia | Magical Legends, Fables and Folklore


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From along the breathtaking Dalmatian Coast and traveling through war-torn countries in Central Europe, we have experienced the incredible natural beauty, glittering azure water, majestic beaches, and soaring mountains as we reach storied Lake Bled.

We arrive at magical Lake Bled and its fairy tale world in Slovenia. Lake Bled is ranked among the most beautiful places in Slovenia and the most photogenic lake on the planet.  Bled is Slovenia’s most popular alpine resort, luring honeymooners, backpackers, hikers, mountaineers, and outdoorsmen during all four seasons.





Just one of the many fables in ancient times is there was no water at the now Lake Bled; it was once a valley of lush green grass and only a single rock.  By day, the shepherds grazed their sheep in the valley, and by night, the fairies danced. Until one day, when the fairies asked the shepherds to fence in around their dance area, so the grass would remain soft.  The shepherds ignored their plea, and soon the youngest and most beautiful fairy broke her leg while dancing. 

7/14/2025

Happenstance | Église Saint-Augustin de Paris

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It is certainly no secret that my husband and I enjoy Paris. We have made several trips there to revisit and reacquaint ourselves with the city over the years.  We enjoy ambling through side streets, ducking beneath passageways, exploring and stopping in a quiet spot to sit, reflect, and admire the beauty of the city of lights, all the while attempting to discover more of its glory. We are the type of traveler who needs a bit more and looks beyond the renowned Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and the Louvre to find an intimate setting that will leave an indelible impression on our hearts.

Just a few short weeks ago, we stayed at a beautiful Parisian pied-à-terre in the 8th arrondissement on Rue de Laborde, near Boulevard Haussmann. A little hidden treasure, discreetly tucked away on a quiet side street that was secure and situated within a quaint garden courtyard, yet just far enough away from tourist-filled streets and crowds.

Inside, there was the most inviting bank of nearly floor-to-ceiling windows, with perfect views of Paris' rooftops, gardens, and streetscapes. After a busy day of exploring, we would enjoy a glass of wine and watch the golden glow of lights flickering on within the many neighboring buildings as evening came to a close and the sun was setting. We felt like we were getting a peek into the real Parisian lifestyle. 

                                                  






Truth is, there are many scattered hidden treasures in the 8th arrondissement and throughout Paris – they range from little niches of solitude to serene retreats - to be discovered and savored.  It sometimes happens serendipitously - moments that will take you by surprise, moments that take your breath away, and leave an indelible mark on your memory. 




It was a typical Paris day for us as we wandered through the streets and alleyways, with no map or matter in mind as to what would be next on our itinerary. When we found ourselves at the grand Église Saint-Augustin de Paris, a Catholic church built between 1860 and 1871. The first church to be built with a cast-iron frame and roof, it anchors 46 Boulevard Malesherbes and the Church of La Madeleine, located at the opposite end. This grand Haussmann-designed Catholic Church seems to be a quiet secret in Paris; it seems to be forgotten by the tourists.

The Église Saint-Augustin Catholic Church can be seen from the Arc de Triomphe - down avenue de Friedland, and it seems to call out like a beacon; "come on in and savor the moment - enjoy my majestic surroundings." The red steel spire with its golden cross sits atop the slate blue steel dome, soaring 100m high to the sky. This Byzantine and Romanesque-designed church gives an intimate feel. Inside, local families quietly come and go, praying, lighting candles, and where elderly women faithfully pray the rosary.  They have found their peace and comfort in this neighborhood church.

For me, it was drifting along softly and quietly, down the side aisles, all the while admiring the stained glass, religious icons, and soaring iron angels, when suddenly, I glanced into the chapel dedicated to Foucauld, who was canonized by Pope Francis, and witnessed a beautiful and private baptism.  What a glorious moment! This is what makes Paris special; you can stumble into beautiful moments and keep them secure in your memory and heart forever.

The petit bébé was delicately dressed in his long white, flowing christening gown, tied with blue satin ribbons - as the priest held him high for all to see; all the while offering blessings and prayers to the child and his family in affirmation.  Family members snapped photos and basked in this sacred moment.  We suddenly felt a part of this family’s private ceremony. We took away with us that beautiful memory that will be locked in our hearts forever, all provided by happenstance inside Église Saint-Augustin de Paris Catholic Church.

To us, this is precisely what makes Paris so incredibly special: stumbling upon moments that you can keep assured in your heart and mind forever.

________________________________________________________

I’m Christie, a Midwest native who is an intrepid traveler, author, and owner of the blog Scribbles and Smiles.  Writing under the bespoke pen name J. Christina, sharing stories from European adventures and magical excursions. Since starting my blog, I have contributed articles to France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, Perfectly Provence, and Bella Provence Travels.


Travel is a privilege. 

 


12/06/2023

A Bastide Town | Libourne, France

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Travel dates 10/21/2023 - 10/31/2023

Today we are docked in Libourne, France, a quaint fortified harbor town at the confluence of the Dordogne and Isle Rivers, just east of Bordeaux, and a few minutes' drive south-east to reach Saint Émilion and Pomerol.


Like most bastide towns, Libourne is laid out in a grid system and the main square is a hub of activity. Every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday you will find the Libourne farmer’s market at Place Abel Surchamp, easily the best in the Gironde. There is a plethora of colorful stalls selling delicacies of the region, fresh oysters, vegetables from local farmers, freshly baked bread, and mouthwatering pastries artfully displayed. A true Libournais wine destination with cafes and restaurants spilling onto the square. In true fashion, you will see French women and families carrying their shopping baskets filled with seasonal produce, and a fresh baguette, living an authentic lifestyle.


There are many things to experience in this bastide town, the iconic vaulted arched bridge from 1820, Pont De Libourne, and the 15th-century town hall, guarding its quiet secret, the Museum of Fine Arts. Discretely exhibiting works by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Albrecht Dürer, and Auguste Rodin. Or visit the Saint-Jean Baptiste Church, which has an authenticated Crown of Thorns of Christ. As you head toward the redeveloped quay, it has become a public promenade for leisure activities.

To conclude my day in Libourne, by appointment only, I visited La Maison Galerie owned by Laurence Pustetto. Once you enter the glass and black lacquered steel door, you are entering an artistic universe.  It is a private home with staged and designed exhibits from contemporary artists. Laurence Pustetto, the owner, conducts bespoke tours.   It is a must-see if you are in Libourne, France.

There are many such treasures in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of southwest France all waiting to be explored.

This is my final post from my intrepid travel in southwestern France.  The Gironde is the largest department in metropolitan France and the second largest in France. My home base was Bordeaux, the capital of the Gironde. It was an enchanting trip throughout, where I sipped, sampled, and strolled my way through the stunning wine villages and picturesque countryside.
_________________________________________________________

I’m Christie, a Midwest native who is an intrepid traveler, author, and owner of the blog Scribbles and Smiles.  Writing under the bespoke pen name J. Christina, sharing stories from European adventures and magical excursions. Since starting my blog, I have contributed articles to France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, Perfectly Provence, and Bella Provence Travels.


 J

11/07/2023

Bourg: Perched Atop A Quiet Secret in Dordogne

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Bourg, France, is a hidden gem on the right bank of the Dordogne River, nestled in the heart of the wine appellation of Côtes de Bourg, in southwest France. In the 16th century, Bourg was a fortified community that secured a prominent position at the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers.  In medieval times, this tiny hamlet was invaded by Visigoths, ravaged by the Normans, fortified by the English, and hosted more royalty than anyone ever expected, having been visited by four kings. 
Scribbles and Smiles by J Christina
Nowadays, Bourg sits discreetly among three prominent UNESCO Heritage sites:  Blaye, Saint Émilion, and Bordeaux. This tiny ancient village, once named Bourg-sur-Gironde, built in Roman times, tells a tumultuous 2000-year-old history. 


10/26/2023

Saint-Émilion: Lost-in-Time Storied Village

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On this solo journey, I have explored Bordeaux, Cadillac, Blaye, Bourg, and Libourne.  Libourne lies northeast of Bordeaux and sits on the confluence of the Dordogne and the Isle rivers. Join me as we go beyond Libourne and explore the honey-colored village of Saint Émilion.

Saint-Émilion is a honey-colored wine village in the Gironde department in southwest France, where it gracefully adorns a rocky outcrop overlooking the Dordogne River valley.  In 1999, Saint-Émilion was awarded the title of Cultural Landscape by UNESCO; protecting its ancient architecture, landscape, and historic vineyards that still produce world-famous wines today.  This quaint wine village will pull at your heartstrings with its photogenic beauty, glistening limestone facades, and vine-laced vineyards.

The most practical piece of advice I can give you for visiting Saint-Émilion is to wear sturdy walking shoes. You will thank me later, as you navigate up and down those captivating winding lanes, all inlaid with centuries-old shiny and slick ballast-cobblestones, beckoning you forward to explore this remarkably rich village.


Scribbles and Smiles by J. Christina


10/24/2023

Blaye, France: Le Citadelle de Blaye

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After spending time in Bordeaux, I traveled upstream to explore Cadillac, to explore the colorful life of Toulouse-Lautrec at Chàteau de Malromè. Now, meandering just north of Bordeaux, is Blaye (blaj), a commune, fortified since antiquity. Join me in discovering this ancient citadel once again.


The Aquitaine region straddles a prominent position in southwest France. It stretches long and leans against the French Atlantic coastline, reaching up to the Pyrénées mountain range and extending to the Spanish border.  It is here, in the Gironde department, where intrepid travelers can scamper to the summit of storybook castles, bike through vineyard-laced countryside, walk through ancient villages, and sip world-renowned wines.  Tourists and travelers alike can discover the douceur de vivre in this tiny one-kilometer-long settlement, once named Blaye-et-Sainte-Luce.

Let me introduce you to Blaye, France, a petite but mighty hamlet, sitting at the southern tip of the Gironde estuary, formed by the confluences of the nearby Dordogne and Garonne rivers.  Blaye is a historical and powerful commune from medieval times, where the Citadel of Blaye and its military fortifications sit majestically over the waters of Western Europe’s largest estuary.

 

Scribbles and Smiles by J Christina