7/14/2025

Happenstance | Église Saint-Augustin de Paris

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It is certainly no secret that my husband and I enjoy Paris. We have made several trips there to revisit and reacquaint ourselves with the city over the years.  We enjoy ambling through side streets, ducking beneath passageways, exploring and stopping in a quiet spot to sit, reflect, and admire the beauty of the city of lights, all the while attempting to discover more of its glory. We are the type of traveler who needs a bit more and looks beyond the renowned Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and the Louvre to find an intimate setting that will leave an indelible impression on our hearts.

Just a few short weeks ago, we stayed at a beautiful Parisian pied-à-terre in the 8th arrondissement on Rue de Laborde, near Boulevard Haussmann. A little hidden treasure, discreetly tucked away on a quiet side street that was secure and situated within a quaint garden courtyard, yet just far enough away from tourist-filled streets and crowds.

Inside, there was the most inviting bank of nearly floor-to-ceiling windows, with perfect views of Paris' rooftops, gardens, and streetscapes. After a busy day of exploring, we would enjoy a glass of wine and watch the golden glow of lights flickering on within the many neighboring buildings as evening came to a close and the sun was setting. We felt like we were getting a peek into the real Parisian lifestyle. 

                                                  






Truth is, there are many scattered hidden treasures in the 8th arrondissement and throughout Paris – they range from little niches of solitude to serene retreats - to be discovered and savored.  It sometimes happens serendipitously - moments that will take you by surprise, moments that take your breath away, and leave an indelible mark on your memory. 




It was a typical Paris day for us as we wandered through the streets and alleyways, with no map or matter in mind as to what would be next on our itinerary. When we found ourselves at the grand Église Saint-Augustin de Paris, a Catholic church built between 1860 and 1871. The first church to be built with a cast-iron frame and roof, it anchors 46 Boulevard Malesherbes and the Church of La Madeleine, located at the opposite end. This grand Haussmann-designed Catholic Church seems to be a quiet secret in Paris; it seems to be forgotten by the tourists.

The Église Saint-Augustin Catholic Church can be seen from the Arc de Triomphe - down avenue de Friedland, and it seems to call out like a beacon; "come on in and savor the moment - enjoy my majestic surroundings." The red steel spire with its golden cross sits atop the slate blue steel dome, soaring 100m high to the sky. This Byzantine and Romanesque-designed church gives an intimate feel. Inside, local families quietly come and go, praying, lighting candles, and where elderly women faithfully pray the rosary.  They have found their peace and comfort in this neighborhood church.

For me, it was drifting along softly and quietly, down the side aisles, all the while admiring the stained glass, religious icons, and soaring iron angels, when suddenly, I glanced into the chapel dedicated to Foucauld, who was canonized by Pope Francis, and witnessed a beautiful and private baptism.  What a glorious moment! This is what makes Paris special; you can stumble into beautiful moments and keep them secure in your memory and heart forever.

The petit bébé was delicately dressed in his long white, flowing christening gown, tied with blue satin ribbons - as the priest held him high for all to see; all the while offering blessings and prayers to the child and his family in affirmation.  Family members snapped photos and basked in this sacred moment.  We suddenly felt a part of this family’s private ceremony. We took away with us that beautiful memory that will be locked in our hearts forever, all provided by happenstance inside Église Saint-Augustin de Paris Catholic Church.

To us, this is precisely what makes Paris so incredibly special: stumbling upon moments that you can keep assured in your heart and mind forever.

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I’m Christie, a Midwest native who is an intrepid traveler, author, and owner of the blog Scribbles and Smiles.  Writing under the bespoke pen name J. Christina, sharing stories from European adventures and magical excursions. Since starting my blog, I have contributed articles to France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, Perfectly Provence, and Bella Provence Travels.


Travel is a privilege. 

 


12/06/2023

A Bastide Town | Libourne, France

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Travel dates 10/21/2023 - 10/31/2023

Today we are docked in Libourne, France, a quaint fortified harbor town at the confluence of the Dordogne and Isle Rivers, just east of Bordeaux, and a few minutes' drive south-east to reach Saint Émilion and Pomerol.


Like most bastide towns, Libourne is laid out in a grid system and the main square is a hub of activity. Every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday you will find the Libourne farmer’s market at Place Abel Surchamp, easily the best in the Gironde. There is a plethora of colorful stalls selling delicacies of the region, fresh oysters, vegetables from local farmers, freshly baked bread, and mouthwatering pastries artfully displayed. A true Libournais wine destination with cafes and restaurants spilling onto the square. In true fashion, you will see French women and families carrying their shopping baskets filled with seasonal produce, and a fresh baguette, living an authentic lifestyle.


There are many things to experience in this bastide town, the iconic vaulted arched bridge from 1820, Pont De Libourne, and the 15th-century town hall, guarding its quiet secret, the Museum of Fine Arts. Discretely exhibiting works by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Albrecht Dürer, and Auguste Rodin. Or visit the Saint-Jean Baptiste Church, which has an authenticated Crown of Thorns of Christ. As you head toward the redeveloped quay, it has become a public promenade for leisure activities.

To conclude my day in Libourne, by appointment only, I visited La Maison Galerie owned by Laurence Pustetto. Once you enter the glass and black lacquered steel door, you are entering an artistic universe.  It is a private home with staged and designed exhibits from contemporary artists. Laurence Pustetto, the owner, conducts bespoke tours.   It is a must-see if you are in Libourne, France.

There are many such treasures in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of southwest France all waiting to be explored.

This is my final post from my intrepid travel in southwestern France.  The Gironde is the largest department in metropolitan France and the second largest in France. My home base was Bordeaux, the capital of the Gironde. It was an enchanting trip throughout, where I sipped, sampled, and strolled my way through the stunning wine villages and picturesque countryside.
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I’m Christie, a Midwest native who is an intrepid traveler, author, and owner of the blog Scribbles and Smiles.  Writing under the bespoke pen name J. Christina, sharing stories from European adventures and magical excursions. Since starting my blog, I have contributed articles to France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, Perfectly Provence, and Bella Provence Travels.


 J

11/07/2023

Bourg: Perched Atop A Quiet Secret in Dordogne

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Bourg, France, is a hidden gem on the right bank of the Dordogne River, nestled in the heart of the wine appellation of Côtes de Bourg, in southwest France. In the 16th century, Bourg was a fortified community that secured a prominent position at the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers.  In medieval times, this tiny hamlet was invaded by Visigoths, ravaged by the Normans, fortified by the English, and hosted more royalty than anyone ever expected, having been visited by four kings. 
Scribbles and Smiles by J Christina
Nowadays, Bourg sits discreetly among three prominent UNESCO Heritage sites:  Blaye, Saint Émilion, and Bordeaux. This tiny ancient village, once named Bourg-sur-Gironde, built in Roman times, tells a tumultuous 2000-year-old history. 


10/26/2023

Saint-Émilion: Lost-in-Time Storied Village

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On this solo journey, I have explored Bordeaux, Cadillac, Blaye, Bourg, and Libourne.  Libourne lies northeast of Bordeaux and sits on the confluence of the Dordogne and the Isle rivers. Join me as we go beyond Libourne and explore the honey-colored village of Saint Émilion.

Saint-Émilion is a honey-colored wine village in the Gironde department in southwest France, where it gracefully adorns a rocky outcrop overlooking the Dordogne River valley.  In 1999, Saint-Émilion was awarded the title of Cultural Landscape by UNESCO; protecting its ancient architecture, landscape, and historic vineyards that still produce world-famous wines today.  This quaint wine village will pull at your heartstrings with its photogenic beauty, glistening limestone facades, and vine-laced vineyards.

The most practical piece of advice I can give you for visiting Saint-Émilion is to wear sturdy walking shoes. You will thank me later, as you navigate up and down those captivating winding lanes, all inlaid with centuries-old shiny and slick ballast-cobblestones, beckoning you forward to explore this remarkably rich village.


Scribbles and Smiles by J. Christina


10/24/2023

Blaye, France: Le Citadelle de Blaye

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After spending time in Bordeaux, I traveled upstream to explore Cadillac, to explore the colorful life of Toulouse-Lautrec at Chàteau de Malromè. Now, meandering just north of Bordeaux, is Blaye (blaj), a commune, fortified since antiquity. Join me in discovering this ancient citadel once again.


The Aquitaine region straddles a prominent position in southwest France. It stretches long and leans against the French Atlantic coastline, reaching up to the Pyrénées mountain range and extending to the Spanish border.  It is here, in the Gironde department, where intrepid travelers can scamper to the summit of storybook castles, bike through vineyard-laced countryside, walk through ancient villages, and sip world-renowned wines.  Tourists and travelers alike can discover the douceur de vivre in this tiny one-kilometer-long settlement, once named Blaye-et-Sainte-Luce.

Let me introduce you to Blaye, France, a petite but mighty hamlet, sitting at the southern tip of the Gironde estuary, formed by the confluences of the nearby Dordogne and Garonne rivers.  Blaye is a historical and powerful commune from medieval times, where the Citadel of Blaye and its military fortifications sit majestically over the waters of Western Europe’s largest estuary.

 

Scribbles and Smiles by J Christina


10/19/2023

Discover the best-kept secrets of Bordeaux


Traveling solo and arrived today in historical Bordeaux to revisit the city and to explore the small villages and towns in southwestern France.  Where I will glide along the riverscape of the Garonne, Dordogne, and Gironde rivers. Stopping in the quaint communities of Cadillac (kad-e-yak), Blaye, Bourg, Libourne, and Saint-Émilion, the most visited place in the Gironde. 

Bordeaux is a port city located in the southwestern region of France, known globally for its famous wine production. After many years of revitalization, this "sleeping beauty" has awoken from its slumber. With civic pride, a vision, and a grand plan for urban revitalization, the Bordelais set in motion a cosmopolitan renewal. Going about cleaning centuries of soot from historical limestone buildings, removing walls and traffic from the ancient city center. Demolishing and relocating riverfront warehouses and docks – creating a riverfront promenade for tourists, cyclists, and joggers to explore this beauty on foot.

www.scribblesandsmiles.net
Miroir d'eau (water mirror)

 

It is a mix of historical and modern renaissance. In 2007, Bordeaux received the classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, honoring 1810 hectares in the region, along with its historical buildings and sites.  Situated along one of its greatest assets, the Garonne River, flowing into the Gironde Estuary, Gironde River, and the Dordogne, stretching out to the Atlantic Ocean.  Bordeaux has become world famous for its wine regions and beautiful rivers.

The city is beautifully restored and has a modern public transport system, known as the TBM, Transport Bordeaux Métropole.  You can comfortably and economically use four tram lines around this historical city, even reaching the Bordeaux-Mérignac airport.

www.scribblesandsmiles.net
 

Bordeaux is so much more than a place of world-renowned vineyards and wine. Bordeaux abounds with unexpected and heartwarming surprises, like experiencing the historical and heavenly Canelé, dating back to the 19th century, created by the nuns at Saint Eulalia.  It is a bite-size, crispy golden-brown cake, with a thin outer crust, slightly burnt and caramelized, hiding a luscious melt-in-your-mouth treat permeating with a vanilla and rum fusion.

Surprises like Marché des Capucins, Bordeaux’s oldest and largest historical covered market, dating from 1749, still thriving in modern times. This market is often called the “belly of Bordeaux” where the history of the market has stood still. It offers regional delicacies like white asparagus from Blaye, briny oysters from Arcachon, pork belly from the Médoc region, fresh lamb chops from Pauillac (pojak) and more varieties of cheeses than one can imagine.

On the other hand, discover the pilgrim’s trail to Le Chemin de St. Jacques de Compostelle (the Way of St. James) through the heart of Bordeaux. The pilgrim’s route is marked by the inlaid scalloped seashells throughout Bordeaux. The route weaves through cobblestone streets beginning at Porte Cailhau, loops past Sainte Pierre, and on to Saint-André Cathedral for 8.4km through the historic city and beyond.

Bordeaux offers unparalleled treasures to explore, noble chateaux, and breathtaking scenery. Join me in savoring its best kept secrets.

 October 19-October 30, 2023

Tram, Taxi, Recommendation in/around Bordeaux 

Bordeaux-Mérignac airport

TBM  Tram, Bus, train

Marché des Capucins  (open Tuesday – Sunday)

Bordeaux Visitors Tourism

J. Christina is the author and owner of Scribbles and Smiles. Through our blog, we share stories of the wonderful discoveries we have made on our European travels. Christina (Christie) is married to John, a.k.a. Mr. Christie.  Hence, their bespoke pen name, J. Christina.  Christie is traveling solo on this adventure, 2023.

J. Christina’s work has been featured on France Today, Bonjour Paris, The Good Life France, and Perfectly Provence.

 


6/21/2023

Lyon, France | Historic Traboules, Bouchons, and Silk


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All blog posts are based on our personal travels around Europe, penned by J. Christina.

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Travel dates: July 26- August 8, 2022

The S.S. Catherine leaves the twin towns of Tain L’Hermitage-Tournon behind and sails 77km north reaching Lyon tonight. Captain Pascal skillfully navigates four more locks en route; Gergans, Sablons Vaugris & Pierre-Benite, docking at Quai Claude Bernard in Lyon, near the Pont de l'Universite bridge. Lyon is the third largest city in France, after Paris and Marseille, and the capital of both the Rhône department and the Auvergne-Rhône Alpes region.  We are nearing the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers.

University Bridge Lyon, France
Pont de l'Universite bridge             Image by Christie
We start our morning with a guided walking tour weaving through Vieux Lyon through a warren of cobblestone streets, exploring the secret passageways called Traboules.  During the 19th century these passages were once used to link courtyards, stairs, and homes to the Rhône River. They allow silk weavers to transport their precious silks in inclement weather. In the 20th century, some passageways were used as escape routes and hiding places during the German occupation. Today you can visit some 40 Traboules that are open to tourists but also used by residents as public corridors and community courtyards.  You can locate the Traboules route by the decorative signage, a bronze plaque with a lion’s head, and arrow pointing the way.   

Our tour of Lyon would not be complete without a stop at Brochier Soieries, an 1890 silk shop specializing in handcrafted silk fabrics, scarves, ties and other high quality made-in France products. The family is dedicated to keeping the 16th century Lyon traditional industry alive for multiple generations.
Brochier Soieries 1890 Silk Merchant Lyon, France
Brochier Soieries 1890